TR-240-GB is a 65/35 polyester-rayon gabardine — engineered for structured uniform garments that require the body, crease retention, and professional appearance of a suiting fabric: blazers, suit jackets, management uniforms, and airline cabin crew coats.
Gabardine is a steep twill weave — typically woven at a 63° angle rather than the 45° of standard twill. This creates a tighter, smoother fabric surface with a distinctive steep diagonal line. The tighter construction gives gabardine three advantages over standard twill for structured garments:
Crease retention — the steep twill structure holds a pressed edge longer than standard twill
Abrasion resistance — tighter weave = less yarn movement = longer wear at elbows and collar
Body — the fabric has more structure and stand, essential for tailored blazers and suit jackets
At 240 GSM, this fabric provides the weight needed for structured jackets that drape cleanly without being heavy. It is appropriate for year-round wear in climate-controlled environments.
Excellent — holds a structured crease through full shifts
Finishing
Pre-washed, heat-set, anti-pilling treated
Gabardine vs Standard Twill for Blazers
Factor
TR-240-GB (Gabardine)
Standard Twill 200gsm
Weave angle
Steep 63°
Standard 45°
Surface appearance
Clean, tight, fine diagonal
Broader, more open diagonal
Fabric body
Structured — holds jacket shape
Softer — less body for tailored garments
Crease retention
Excellent — ideal for blazer lapels
Good
Abrasion resistance
≥30,000 Martindale
≥25,000
Best for
Blazers, suit jackets, management coats
Trousers only
TR vs Wool — The Practical Alternative
TR gabardine at 65/35 is the most widely specified alternative to wool suiting for uniform blazers and suit jackets. It provides the same tailored appearance and structured drape as wool-polyester suiting at approximately 40–50% lower fabric cost, with significantly easier care (machine washable vs. dry clean only).
Factor
TR-240-GB (TR Gabardine)
Wool-Poly Suiting (45/55)
Cost per meter
Baseline
40–50% higher
Care
Machine wash 60°C
Dry clean recommended
Wrinkle resistance
Excellent
Good
Breathability
Good — rayon breathes
Better — wool breathes naturally
Appearance
Matte finish, clean surface
Natural wool texture
Weight
240 GSM
240–260 GSM
For budget-conscious uniform programs that require the look and structure of a wool blazer without the dry-cleaning cost, TR gabardine is the standard choice.
Fabric Hand & Appearance
Hand feel: Smooth, firm, structured — the fabric has body without stiffness. The fine yarn count and tight weave create a surface that feels premium to the touch.
Appearance: Clean, tight gabardine surface with a fine, steep diagonal line. Matte finish — no synthetic shine. The fabric has a subtle luster from the rayon content that mimics the natural sheen of wool suiting.
Drape: Structured — holds a tailored silhouette at the shoulders, lapels, and waist. Does not sag or bag at the elbows. Returns to shape after sitting.
Applications
Application
Why TR-240-GB
Hotel management blazers
Structured drape, clean appearance — appropriate for guest-facing leadership roles
Airline cabin crew suit jackets
Standard specification for many carriers — holds crease through flight cycles
Corporate executive suiting
Professional tailored appearance at lower cost than wool
TR gabardine at 240 GSM is suitable for use with standard fusible chest piece and collar interfacings used in blazer construction. We recommend testing your specific interfacing with a sample of this fabric before bulk production to confirm adhesion temperature and shrinkage match.
Care Instructions
Step
Instruction
Washing
Machine wash 60°C, gentle cycle — or dry clean for structured garments
Bleaching
Oxygen bleach compatible — do not use chlorine bleach on structured colors
Drying
Hang dry — do not tumble dry blazers (may distort interfacing)
Ironing
Medium iron (150°C), steam — use press cloth on lapels
Dry cleaning
Recommended for constructed blazers — preserves interfacing and shoulder padding
⚠️ Blazer care: For fully constructed blazers with fused interfacings and shoulder pads, dry cleaning is recommended. Machine washing is suitable for unconstructed or soft-structured jackets. If machine washing, use gentle cycle and hang dry only — never tumble dry a constructed jacket.
FAQ
Q: Is 240 GSM heavy enough for a blazer? A: Yes — 240 GSM is the standard weight for year-round uniform blazers. It provides sufficient body for a tailored silhouette without being too heavy for climate-controlled environments. For winter or cold-climate programs, 260–280 GSM is available on request.
Q: Can this fabric be used for both men’s and women’s blazers? A: Yes. The structured drape works well for both men’s tailored and women’s fitted silhouettes. The fabric has enough body to hold shoulder structure for men’s jackets and enough drape to follow women’s waist suppression without buckling.
Q: Does this fabric need lining? A: For a finished blazer or jacket, yes — we recommend lining. The 240 GSM gabardine has good opacity but lining provides the slip layer needed for easy on/off over shirts or blouses. We do not supply lining fabric.
Q: How does this compare to your PC stretch twill (PC-STR-220) for blazers? A: TR-240-GB has more body and structure — it is the better choice for tailored blazers. PC-STR-220 has stretch and is better for soft-structured or unconstructed jackets. For management and executive blazers, TR gabardine is the correct specification.
Q: Is this fabric suitable for sublimation or custom printing? A: No — the 35% rayon content does not accept sublimation dyes (sublimation requires ≥80% polyester). For printed blazer programs, use a 100% polyester base fabric. For solid-color blazers, TR gabardine is the standard.
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