LS-5243 —Linen/Cotton/Spandex 52/43/5 Stretch Twill 200–240gsm

LS-5243 is the stretch version of our bestselling linen-cotton twill — solving the two biggest complaints about linen in uniforms: excessive wrinkling and restricted movement.

52% linen provides the natural texture, breathability, and premium appearance that sets linen apart from standard polyester blends. 43% cotton delivers softness and comfort against the skin. 5% spandex gives a genuine 15–20% weft stretch with ≥90% recovery after 50+ washes — meaning the fabric stretches when the wearer moves and returns to its original shape.

The result is a uniform fabric that moves like activewear but looks like a tailored natural fabric. No polyester sheen, no stiff hand, no bagging at the knees after a full shift.

Description

Technical Specifications

Specification Value
Product Code LS-5243
Composition 52% Linen / 43% Cotton / 5% Spandex
Weight 200–240 GSM (±5%)
Width 140 cm / 55″ (usable)
Weave Twill 2/1
Yarn Count Ne 21 × Ne 16 + 40D Spandex
Density 110 × 70 threads per 10 cm
Stretch (Weft Direction) 15–20% elongation (ASTM D3107)
Recovery ≥90% after 50 home laundries (ASTM D3107)
Shrinkage ≤3% after 5 home laundries (ISO 6330)
Colorfastness to Washing Grade 4 (ISO 105-C06)
Colorfastness to Light Grade 4 (ISO 105-B02)
Pilling Resistance Grade 3–4 (ISO 12945-2)
Tensile Strength (Warp) ≥700 N (ISO 13934-1)
Tear Strength (Weft) ≥18 N (ISO 13937-2)
pH Value 4.0–7.5 (ISO 3071)
Finishing Pre-washed, softened, heat-set for stretch stability

Why Add Spandex to Linen-Cotton?

Linen-cotton blends wear well, but they don’t stretch. For fitted uniform silhouettes — slim trousers, tailored blazers, women’s fitted pants — that lack of give creates two problems:

  • Garment stress: Seams pop, crotch seams blow out, knees bag permanently
  • Wearer fatigue: Restricted range of motion in roles that require bending, reaching, or climbing

5% spandex eliminates both problems while preserving everything that makes linen-cotton desirable — the look, the breathability, the natural hand feel.

Fabric Hand & Appearance

  • Hand feel: Soft with a subtle dry linen finish and noticeable crosswise give. The spandex is invisible in the hand — no rubbery feel.
  • Appearance: Natural linen slub texture, clean twill diagonal. No polyester shine. Looks like a premium natural fabric.
  • Drape: Structured with recovery — fits close to the body without pulling or sagging. Returns to shape after sitting.

How It Compares

Fabric Wrinkle Resistance Stretch / Recovery Breathability Cost
Standard PC twill Good None — bags at knees Poor — traps heat Low
LC-3070-T (30/70 no stretch) Moderate None Good Low
LS-5243 (this fabric) Good 15–20% stretch, 90% recovery Good Moderate
Pure linen Poor — heavy wrinkles None Excellent High
Polyester-stretch suiting Excellent 20–30% stretch Poor Moderate

Applications

Application Why This Fabric Works
Fitted uniform trousers (slim / skinny cut) Weft stretch allows close fit without restricting movement
Women’s fitted blazers and skirts Stretch prevents seam stress at hips and shoulders
Travel-friendly corporate suiting 90% recovery means no bagging after long-haul flights or full shifts
Front-of-house hospitality uniforms Premium linen look with the ease of a stretch fabric — ironing optional
Culinary / kitchen chef pants Stretch for mobility, linen for breathability in hot kitchens
Airport and airline ground crew Bending, lifting, reaching — stretch prevents garment fatigue

Weight Guide

Target Garment Recommended GSM
Slim-fit dress trousers 200–220
Women’s fitted trousers 200–220
Stretch blazers and jackets 220–240
Skirts and pencil skirts 210–230

Available Finishes

Finish Description
Pre-wash / Softened (Standard) Mill pre-wash, heat-set for stretch stability, ready to cut
Wrinkle-Resistant (DP) ≥3.0 rating after 20 washes (AATCC 66)
Stain-Release Fluorochemical-free barrier (AATCC 130)
Moisture-Wicking ≥120mm wicking height in 30 min (AATCC 197)

Color Options

Stock Colors (8 — held in continuous inventory):

  • Neutrals: Black, Charcoal, Dark Grey
  • Blues: Navy, Dark Navy
  • Warm: Khaki, Olive
  • Special: Wine Red

Custom Dye:

  • Pantone / Lab-dyed match: ≤0.5 delta E
  • MOQ: 500 meters per color
  • Color strike-off: 3–5 working days
  • Bulk dye lead time: 25–30 days

Note: Due to the spandex content, custom dye requires special heat-setting. Lead time may extend to 30–35 days for stretch-sensitive colors.


Ordering Information

Parameter Details
Stock color MOQ 200 meters per color
Custom color MOQ 500 meters per color
A4 sample swatch Free, dispatched within 3 working days
Sample yardage (1–5m) At cost + freight
Bulk lead time (stock) 15–20 days
Bulk lead time (custom dye) 25–30 days (stretch colors: up to 35)
Packing Roll on tube, polybag wrapped, export carton
Shipping FOB Shanghai / CIF / DDP — air, sea, or express

Care Instructions

Care Step Instruction
Washing Machine wash 30°C, gentle cycle — do not wash hot (heat degrades spandex)
Bleaching Do not bleach
Drying Hang dry or tumble dry low — do not high-heat tumble
Ironing Medium iron (150°C), steam recommended
Dry cleaning Permitted (PCE) — recommended for blazers and structured garments

⚠️ Important: High-temperature washing (60°C+) and high-heat drying will permanently degrade the spandex elastic recovery. For industrial laundry programs, specify the easy-care DP finish and wash at 40°C maximum.


Certifications

Standard Status
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 Available upon request
REACH Compliance Meets EU chemical safety requirements
ISO 9001 Quality management system in place

Why Source from XINGYE TEXTILE?

  • One of the few mills heat-setting linen-spandex for commercial uniform production — stretch stability is engineered, not guessed
  • Consistent recovery testing: every batch verified ≥90% recovery after 50 washes (ASTM D3107)
  • Direct mill pricing — stretch linen blends are frequently marked up by traders; we supply factory-direct
  • Fabric-to-garment under one roof — we know exactly how this fabric behaves on the cutting table and in the finished garment

FAQ

Q: Will the spandex wear out over time? A: All spandex degrades with heat and chlorine. We spec industrial-grade elastane and heat-set the fabric for stretch recovery. Under normal uniform use (washing 30°C, hang dry), expect ≥90% recovery after 50 washes — roughly 1–2 years of weekly wear.

Q: Does the stretch affect the linen texture appearance? A: No. The spandex core is wrapped in the cotton/linen fiber during spinning. The fabric surface looks and feels like standard linen-cotton twill — no rubbery appearance or shine.

Q: Can this fabric be used for blazers or jackets? A: Yes, at 220–240gsm. The stretch makes it ideal for fitted blazers — no pulling across the back or shoulders. For structured/constructed jackets, test a sample first as the stretch affects how fusible interfacing behaves.

Q: How does the stretch recovery compare to polyester-stretch suiting? A: Polyester-stretch typically recovers at 95–98%. Our linen-spandex recovers at ≥90%. The difference is noticeable in theory but negligible in practice — the linen-cotton hand feel and breathability are trade-offs most uniform buyers happily make.

Q: What’s the best-selling color in stretch linen for uniform programs? A: Black. Followed by Navy and Charcoal. For women’s programs, Wine Red has been a consistent performer in hospitality.

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